New Posts. Post Reply. Post Options Post Reply. My First Post. Guess I have to start somewhere. I apologize in advance - I've had a few let downs and disappointments by service men. I've tried to document everything. I've recently got myself my first boat. I've grown up around boats, and finally had a chance to get one for myself. It's a hp Yamaha.Na granici sezona 2 epizoda 70
Searching the internet and that motor almost dosn't exist. After all the above, it runs much better, up to about rpm and sits there for a few seconds then looses power down to about rpm. I don't know what else to do myself so 2 weeks ago i had it at a shop - they took one look and sold me a fuel tank - without even testing it under load which was one of the reasons i took it to that shop After getting the boat back it's worse than ever - barely get any revs before things start coughing and spluttering Although it will still plane if i leave it coughing and spluttering, it will eventually die altogether, never did that before it went to the shop.
While i was out testing - i tried flicking auto choke thinking that if it was starving, the choke would richen the mix up a bit but that instantly made things worse still, actually killing the engine completely in a split second on one attempt - it was really struggling that time. I never got a receipt showing what was done, but i've since been advised that they should have done a rebuild at the same time just because they were off and everything was apart anyway.
Has anyone got any advice on things to check or try - Or a reliable mechanic that will actually test and diagnose under load and not make wild guesses. I had a similar issue with an old Yamaha on a previous boat.
It had a "limp mode" that when something went wrong it would go into limp mode to get you home rpm. It could be something as simple as a thermostat or impellor.
How is the temp and are there any warning alarms set up? The limp mode will; also kick in if there are issues with the oil injection assuming your engine is oil injected. The internal lining slowly broke away and got into the carbs. Cleaned them out and before long was experiencing problems again so cleaned them again and discovered the issue was the pipes.
Needless to say I changed these and had no further issues. I'm sure there are others out there more knowledgeable then me but that's my 2 cents worth. Good luck. Dagwood Members Profile.The Yamaha outboard alarm system can fail just like any other system on your outboard. Troubleshooting the alarm system includes making sure the horn associated with the alarm works, making sure the warning light comes on and the horn sounds when the oil level drops below acceptable levels and ensuring the warning sounds if the engine overheats.
You can even perform the alarm system tests while you are boating. Turn the ignition key to the start position and pull the safety lanyard. If the horn is operative, it will sound. Disconnect the pink lead and black lead from the temperature warning sensor on the powerhead. Plug the black lead into the socket for the pink lead. The temperature warning icon should flash and the horn should sound.
Place a clean container large enough to hold the contents of the engine's oil reservoir below the oil reservoir.
How to Troubleshoot a Yamaha Outboard Alarm
Remove the glass sight tube from the oil reservoir and drain the reservoir into the container. Start the engine. When the oil goes below the "Add Oil" level, the alarm should sound. Turn the engine off when the alarm sounds, to avoid operating the engine with low oil. Will Charpentier is a writer who specializes in boating and maritime subjects. A retired ship captain, Charpentier holds a doctorate in applied ocean science and engineering.Fault code p025218
He is also a certified marine technician and the author of a popular text on writing local history. Related How to Adjust a Roketa Carburetor. Items you will need Clean container.
Step 1 Turn the ignition key to the start position and pull the safety lanyard. About the Author.User Name Remember Me? Yamaha Power Loss Solved! This is sort of a heads up to other Yamaha owners so they don't go through the troubles we did to solve a power loss issue. We have a Parker with twin Yamaha 4 strokes. They each have hours on them and until recently ran flawless.
Two weeks ago coming home from Clemente I noticed one engine was about rpm's off sync with the other. I didn't think much of it since it did not effect performance, I could also bump the throttle up to put them in sync. The following weekend we were headed back to Clemente and when I started up at the dock I noticed the out of sync motor had a slight vibration but nothing serious.
Once underway things seemed fine. As we came close to the island we noticed the motors were about rpm out of sync and we were feeling a definite vibration.
We shut down and anhored up for the night. The next morning we started up and the bad engine was idling rough and definately had a problem.
We tried to see if it would run and we could not even get the boat to plane. Max rpm's for the bad motor wasnot good. First solution was to change the plugs. When changing them out we noticed they were very light colored meaning we were running lean. New plugs made no difference.
We checked the main fuel filter and it looked fine. We pulled out the injectors and cleaned them the best we could, no luck. We did all we could out there and had no luck. I kept thinking about BiteSomething's recent posts on power loss issues and all the headaches in solving the problem and it had me worried we were in for some frustration.Log in or Sign up. We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites.
The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers. We were out riding this weekend and the wife's XTX got blinking engine amber light and seemed to go into a "limp mode" where it would not go over 35mph, would sputter and cut out after that. Is there a limp mode on these? After sitting at a pit stop for a half an hour, it seemed to run fine again.
Wondering if any of this correlates to this problem? Any ideas on the problem or a good place to start with diagnosis? She was riding it, so I did not get any error code numbers off of the guage. Thanks all for any advice. Messages: Location: auburn hills,mi Country: USA Snowmobile: 09 nytro xtx, 8 inch slydog powederhounds, mbrp silencer, ulmer racing clutching, fast track studs,cr10ek sparkplugs.
Sounds like your TORs was out to lunch briefly. I have sled start and yamaheater on my XTX and have never had any issues like that is it throwing up a number code or any other symbol with the amber light?Yamaha HPDI Neutral Switch Fix For No Power Won't Plane Out
SSXFeb 7, Messages: 64 Location: Lakeville, In. Had that hapen to me last year on my xtx. It was TORS. Found snow built up around the sensor, cleaned and has been ok ever since. Check the throttle cable for tightness and make sure the throttle has a little play when released and it should snap back easily. I had the nut back off down at the throttle body causing the throttle overide sensor TORS.
You can even perform the alarm system tests while you are boating. Turn the ignition key to the start position and pull the safety lanyard. If the horn is operative, it will sound.
Disconnect the pink lead and black lead from the temperature warning sensor on the powerhead. Plug the black lead into the socket for the pink lead. The temperature warning icon should flash and the horn should sound. Place a clean container large enough to hold the contents of the engine's oil reservoir below the oil reservoir. Remove the glass sight tube from the oil reservoir and drain the reservoir into the container. Start the engine.
When the oil goes below the "Add Oil" level, the alarm should sound. Turn the engine off when the alarm sounds, to avoid operating the engine with low oil. Will Charpentier is a writer who specializes in boating and maritime subjects. A retired ship captain, Charpentier holds a doctorate in applied ocean science and engineering.
He is also a certified marine technician and the author of a popular text on writing local history. Items you will need Clean container. Step 1 Turn the ignition key to the start position and pull the safety lanyard. About the Author.The engine sometimes goes into safe mode. I have the manual on this engine, and according to the wiring schematic, There are 2 things that will put the engine into safe mode. The sensors for low oil and the temp sensor. The sensors switches ground an input to the controller when the oil reaches certain low levels.
Also, the temp sensor grounds when the head temp goes up to high. Well the last time it happened, I disconnected all three sensors, and still the engine was in slow mode. I shut down the engine while disconnecting, and restarted This almost seems to be temp related, It only happens during the first 15 minutes of operation for a minute or two, then it will run fine for the rest of the day.
I posted this problem a few weeks ago, thinking it was possably an oil sensor.
Yamaha 140hp 1993 Loosing power under load
Still puzzled… Any suggestions? Thanks, Lou. I had a very similar problem with a Yamaha. If you do have the filter, change it. You may want to first try and run from a portable tank with fresh fuel and different fuel supply hose and bulb. Do not trust any fuel you just happen to have on hand. Mine worked fine on a spare tank. Best of luck.
If it was a fuel restriction or bad fuel I dont think that it would limit at RPM each time it happends. Also, the Yamaha 90 has a 'slow mode' in the event of very low oil or over temp. I checked an tested the involved sensors and connections again, as well as the 2 isolation diodes in the circuit, all checks good. Pull the engine cowling and run it with and without that to see what happens. Pull the engine thermostat and run it with and without that to see what happens.Russian series with english subtitles
Record the time from engine start to when you have the event and under the various circumstances above. Also, record how many times it happens and how many it does not and try to estimate any temperatures involved, including ambient, and how quickly the engine is heated up. During operation, while it is in safe mode or not squirt the suspect component with freon or whatever else they use in electronic shops to cool components for troubleshooting.
What does the engine actually do to itself to go into safe mode? Does it limit the coils or what? Maybe that loop needs some scrutiny. I know you've said that you've removed some of the sensors and still had the problem.
Just some passing thoughts Rocket out. Now I see the oil level control unit, it is part of the gauge. If that subcomponent is your problem and its thermally related, it won't care so much as to how long the engine has been running as it will how long the ignition switch has been in the 'on' position. So here's a diagnostic you can try, that is turn on the ignition switch for 15 minutes or whatever you think is the period of time before you start the engine and see if the problem is eliminated.
Then there's the oil level sensor.Autoencoder clustering github
It utilizes a float position in a tube to turn the oil level sensor switches on and off. Maybe the float, after 20 years, is no longer floating correctly. That could be checked. On the CDI unit there is an over-rev limiter release terminal, which of course will put you in safe mode if there is an over-rev, over-heat, or low oil level. It says if you disconnect this terminal the engine speed will not decrease.The contents of the Alaska Outdoors Supersite forums are viewable by anyone, and may be read by clicking the forum headings below.
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Previous 1 2 template Next. Rob B. So, I got my baot back from the local Yamaha Hewes dealer and we loaded her up with a few days of gear for the weekend. Launched at Whittier and headed out. Boy did she run great. Got about 3 miles out and my starboard motor alarm went off and went into limp mode. I checked the battery cables and every electrical connection I could find. Everything is fine. If I let it cool down for 15 minutes or so, it will run great for a few then back to limp mode.
So, after messing around in Passage for an hour, I gave up and brought her home. So, any ideas on what it could be? Bad voltage regulator? Oil pump? Some silly sensor? Tags: None. I wish I had a magic wand I'd go over to your place and wave it over that sucker and that would be that.
I'm clueless as far as a real fix goes. Fingers crossed for a cheap easy fix. Comment Post Cancel. I'm not finding much online either. Mostly bad battery cables, water in the separators, or starving fuel.
I've already checked those. Gonna talk to Dewey's in the morning and hope that the computer took a code for this. Oh well. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD.Sgs email address
I think you need to check the water bypass valve.
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